Cabinetry 102

Full Kitchen Transitional Cabinets


It’s time for Cabinetry 102! Last month we discussed the differences between stock, semi-custom, and custom cabinets. This month we’re getting a little more technical by comparing framed and full access cabinets, as well as the different door styles.



Framed Cabinet Illustration

Framed Cabinet


Framed cabinets are the most common type in the United States. They are called framed cabinets because of the 1-1/2” lip (frame) around the front of the cabinet box. The doors are attached to the frame rather than the box. This type of cabinet works well in traditionally designed spaces, like the one shown below. If you look closely, you can see the frame between the cabinet doors.


Framed Cabinet Example Kitchen


Frameless Cabinet Illustration

Full Access Cabinet


Full access cabinets are popular in Europe. They do not have a face frame. The doors are attached directly to the cabinet box and are flush with the edge of the box.


Frameless does not mean less quality! Frameless only means there is no frame. This allows full access to the cabinetry. Most frameless cabinets have thicker sides than framed cabinetry, and because there is no lip and the drawers/doors are wider, full access cabinets have about 15% more storage space than their traditional counterparts.


This type of cabinet works well in contemporary or traditional spaces, depending on the door style selected.


Frameless Cabinet Example Kitchen




There are four types of cabinet doors/drawers. Framed cabinets can have inset, lipped, and traditional overlay doors. Both full access and framed cabinets can have full overlay doors/drawer.




Inset Cabinet DoorInset Cabinet Door Top View


Inset cabinet doors sit within the face frame and are flush with the front edges of the cabinet frame. The hinges of the door are exposed. This type of door is most often used to achieve a formal look and works well in a colonial style kitchen.




Lipped Cabinet DoorLipped Cabinet Door Top View


Lipped doors have a rabbet/groove cut all the way around the door on the back side. This cut makes the back part of the cabinet door fit tightly into the box, while the front appears like an overlay (shown below.)


Traditional Overlay


Traditional Overlay DoorTraditional Overlay Door Top View


Traditional overlay doors are mounted against the face frame with ½” – 1” of the face frame exposed. The exposed section of frame is called the reveal. This door is the most common type and is best in traditional settings.


Full Overlay


Full Overlay DoorFull Overlay Door Top View


Full overlay doors are mounted to completely cover the face frame. Hinges are concealed and the doors have less than 1/8” between them. This type of door can be used with framed or frameless cabinets. They are steadily becoming the most popular type of door because of their versatility.


Check back next month when we finish our cabinetry series! We’ll discuss door styles and glass inserts.


Have any more cabinetry tips? Let us know in the comments or on our Facebook or Twitter page!

Cabinetry 101

 Kitchen Cabinets

Cabinets are an important part of home decor. They set the tone for the kitchen, determine the style of the bathroom, and add beauty to utilitarian spaces. With all of the options available today, choosing the right cabinets can be overwhelming for even the most experienced homeowner. There are many factors to consider when selecting your cabinetry and we want to arm you with the knowledge to make the best decision.


There are three major types of cabinetry: stock, semi-custom, and custom.


Contrary to popular belief, the terms stock, semi-custom, and custom are not necessarily indicative of quality. These terms designate the type of production methods used to create the cabinets. Stock cabinets are mass-produced; semi-custom cabinets are produced when ordered and can be altered; and custom cabinets are built to individual specifications. While there are poor and excellent quality cabinets across all types, there are pros and cons associated with each.




Price: $-$$
Quality: Poor-excellent
About: These cabinets are pre-assembled and mass-produced. They wait in a warehouse until ordered. They are available in framed and full access (also known as frameless) construction and in a variety of shapes, sizes, styles, wood species, and finishes. They come in standard widths of 9” to 48” with 3” increments and standard depths of 12” for wall cabinets and 24” for base, oven, and utility cabinets.



  • Most popular type sold
  • Readily available—generally within ten days of being ordered
  • Can be ordered through dealers using the manufacturers catalog


  • What you see is what you get
  • Few options available
  • May not fit the kitchen space exactly. Filler strips are used to close any gaps between a cabinet and an appliance or wall




Price: $$-$$$
Quality: Poor-excellent
About: Semi-custom cabinets are modifiable. Like stock cabinets, semi-custom cabinets are available in framed and full access construction, and come in a variety of shapes, sizes, styles, wood species, and finishes. Basic stock sizes still apply, but certain dimensions can be changed. Widths generally are 9” to 48″ with 1” increments, but this varies by manufacturer. Depths can be reduced or increased within manufacturer guidelines.



  • Second most popular type
  • Greater flexibility in the design process
  • Wider range of styles, sizes, construction, materials, and colors than stock cabinets


  • Construction of semi-custom cabinets doesn’t begin until the order is final, so there may be lengthy wait times
  • Delivery time may take a month or longer
  • Changes to orders can be expensive and may increase delivery time
  • May not fit the space exactly. Filler strips and extended stiles are used to close any gaps between a cabinet and an appliance or wall




Price range: $$$
Quality range: Poor-excellent
About: Custom cabinets are built to individual specifications. There is an unlimited variety of sizes, shapes, styles, wood species, and finishes. You can have the cabinets produced by a carpenter, or have them manufactured. There is also no limit on the width or depths.



  • No limit to design, size, style, materials, colors, finishes, or features
  • Constructed to precise design measurements
  • Great for kitchens with unique layouts or special requirements


  • Generally the most expensive option
  • Delivery time may exceed 12 weeks
  • Wide range of pricing and construction standards


Check back next month for Cabinetry 102. We’ll discuss door types and the difference between framed and full access cabinets.


Have any other tips? Sound off below or let us know on our Facebook and Twitter pages.

Kitchen Task Lighting

Kitchen Task Lighting from Tech Feb 2014


There are three basic types of lighting to incorporate in most rooms:

1)  Ambient

2)  Accent

3)  Task


Ambient lighting is the first layer of lighting. It is the general, overall light in a room. Most often, ambient light comes from a single ceiling-mounted fixture or a few recessed can lights.


Accent lighting is just what it sounds like. It is used to accent or draw attention to a particular object, like a sculpture or painting, or a china display cabinet.


Task lighting is specific lighting in an area of the room where tasks are to be performed. For example, you may keep a lamp beside your reading chair. Task lighting provides better illumination than general lighting.


One of the most important places for task lighting is in the kitchen. Whether you’re chopping vegetables near the sink or stuffing a turkey at the island, proper lighting is essential. Though task lighting seems utilitarian and tedious, it can seamlessly fit into any style and add to the beauty of your kitchen.


Modern Kitchen with Bar


There is plenty of task lighting in this Keidel kitchen. First, the homeowner selected under cabinet lighting to illuminate the countertops. Aside from being aesthetically pleasing, under cabinet lighting is perfect for eliminating dark shadows in food preparation areas. It quickly and easily brightens countertops and is available in a variety of choices, including fluorescents, low-voltage linear systems, and several types of LED systems.


Two main factors determine good lighting for countertops: the illuminance level and uniformity. For kitchen countertops, the recommended level of illuminance is around 500 lux. Uniformity is just the evenness of the light and is essential to prevent eye strain. When installing under cabinet fixtures, place them at the front of the cabinet and not against the wall. This will distribute the light more evenly.


Pendant Task Lighting Kitchen Feb 2014


The second kind of task lighting in this kitchen is found above the island. Pendants are extremely popular for their versatility and practicality. In this kitchen, the pendants provide task lighting over the sink. They’re also good sources of additional light when eating at the bar.


Installing pendants isn’t complicated for a seasoned electrician. A good rule of thumb is to install one pendant for every two feet of counter space. According to the American Lighting Association, you should “mount each pendant so that the bottom of the shade is approximately 66″ above the floor.” Of course, a lighting designer might recommend something different for your specific space.


Range Hood Halogen Lights Feb 2014


The third area of task lighting is slightly more subtle than the others. It can be found above the cooktop as part of the range hood. Many manufacturers offer hoods with halogen or LED lights to illuminate cooking surfaces.


Tech Track Lighting


Another great kitchen task lighting option is track lighting. As shown in the kitchen above, track lighting is suspended from the ceiling. Individual light heads are fitted onto tracks, allowing adjustable positioning and movement. Track lighting works well in modern kitchens, but can look great in transitional and traditional spaces too. Take a look at some of the great examples on Houzz:



These are our favorite types of task lighting for the kitchen. What are yours? Let us know in the comments section, or tell us on Facebook & Twitter!

How to Thaw Frozen Pipes

Winter-Frozen-Pipes-Pic-Jan-2014-TreeIf you think a pipe has already frozen, do not wait for nature to take its course! Thaw the pipe as soon as possible or call a licensed plumber for help! Water expands when it freezes, and you could be left with a burst pipe and a big mess!




Open all faucets–One or more pipes may not be completely frozen and even a small water flow may thaw the obstruction.


If that fails, use a hair dryer to heat the pipe where you suspect the freeze has occurred. Propane torches are dangerous and can cause fires.  If you don’t have a hair dryer use a heat lamp or electric space heater. Be careful to not overload the circuit, and always make sure the outlet is properly grounded to prevent electrical shock.


If you don’t have a hair dryer, a heat lamp, or an electric space heater, and you only have a propane torch, never use it on pvc pipe because it will melt and burn, and never use it near a gas line, for obvious reasons. Be careful not to let the flame come into contact with any wood or surrounding flammable material. Many fires are caused by accidents, and you won’t have water easily available if a pipe is frozen. Keep a fire extinguisher close, just in case!


Check that the taps are open while the pipes are heated in order to remove all the ice in the system once the main blockage is gone.


If you have a basement, locate the spot where the water pipe enters the home. See if this pipe passes through a non-insulated area and apply heat to any suspect area.


If you have a crawlspace, look for any area where cold air can enter. Apply heat to all sections of pipe located in that area.


When thawing, going slowly is best. Although rare, heating up frozen pipes too quickly may cause the pipe to crack or break.


Once the obstruction is cleared and the water is flowing, turn off all faucets and check for leaks in the area where the obstruction occurred. Any leaks you find should be repaired as soon as possible.


When the weather improves, check unused portions of your water system for damage and leaks to avoid possible flooding from undetected cracked or broken pipes.


Have any other helpful tips? Let us know below!

Troubleshoot Your Water Heater

Rheem-Marathon-Electric-Water-Heater-Jan 2014

Winter is here and if your water heater is acting up, you’re in for a miserable season. The good news is that many water heater problems have simple solutions. Find your water heater issue below and we’ll give you an easy answer.




There can be several reasons your water heater isn’t producing enough hot water. It may be undersized for your needs. Learn how to size three types of water heaters from


If your water heater has been working fine but suddenly stops producing enough hot water (and your usage pattern has not changed) there may be another problem. Check for a broken dip tube, a defective thermostat, burned out heating elements (if your water heater is electric,) or a heavy buildup of sediment.




As water heaters age, calcium carbonate can precipitate out and settle to the bottom of the heater, forming sediment. This is especially common in areas where hard water exists. As the burners heat the bottom of the tank, steam bubbles form under the sediment. The steam bubbles escaping from underneath the sediment can create a thumping and popping noise.


This buildup of sediment can reduce the efficiency of your water heater, lower its holding capacity, and clog pumps and valves elsewhere in your plumbing system. You can help prevent sediment buildup by regularly flushing the water heater.



The sudden closing of a valve causes a shock wave in the system, resulting in a hammering sound in the pipes. This is not just an annoying noise–it can be potentially damaging!


Luckily, water hammer arrestors can combat this problem. Installed near the heater, the air bladder cushions the force of the flow of the water, softening the impact.




Get ready, things are about to get a little scientific!


Water contains oxygen and other gases. The capacity of water to hold gas is determined by atmospheric pressure. At normal atmospheric pressure, when water is heated, it releases some of the gas. In a water heater, the same principle applies but in a closed environment. The water heater holds gases in their dissolved state. When water is drawn from a faucet and released from the tank, the pressure is lowered, causing the gas to vaporize and form tiny bubbles int he water, giving it a milky appearance.


These bubbles are harmless. If you let the water stand for a few minutes the bubbles will rise from the liquid and the water will become clear.



Do you have any other easy fixes for common water heater problems? Sound off on our Facebook page, or comment below!

Planning the Perfect Powder Room

Unlike other rooms of the home, the powder room can break every rule of conventional design and still look great. Compared to the kitchen or master bath, it’s inexpensive to redo and fun to experiment with, making it an ideal statement room. Below are some ideas and tips to help you plan your perfect powder room.




Usually tucked under a stairwell or hidden in a hallway, the powder room is generally a small space. Its size doesn’t leave room for layout creativity—or much of anything else—so you have to be very meticulous in your planning.


All bathrooms require piping in the floors and walls. Changing the layout if you have an existing powder room can be costly. If you’re planning a new powder room, think about how to make the space as functional as possible. If staying within budget is your first priority, reduce plumbing costs by placing plumbing fixtures along a single wall. This allows fixtures to share the same line.


Here are some examples of a typical powder room layout:


Powder Room Layout Example


Consider adding a small closet to your layout. If you have the space, a closet can be a great place to store extra towels and guest toiletries. It will also allow you to be more flexible with your sink choice, because you won’t have to worry about choosing a vanity over a pedestal just because of storage.


Here are some examples of a powder room layout with a closet:


Powder Room with Closet Layout Example




Though you probably won’t need as much storage space as you would with a master or full bath, it is still an important aspect of powder room planning. Console tables, bath furniture, shelves, and custom vanity cabinets are all great storage spaces if you are unable to add a narrow closet to your floor plan.


Remember, the powder room is considered formal therefore toothbrushes, hair dryers, and other family items shouldn’t be stored here. Keep toilet paper, extra towels, and plenty of soap stored in your powder room for guests.




Though moisture and condensation are generally not a concern in the powder room, adequate ventilation is always important. Because sounds seem louder in a small room, choose an exhaust fan with a low sone rating.




Flooring in Showroom Kallista AreaAs a rule, light colors make a room feel larger. However, in the powder room, wall color and design come down to personal preference. Dark colors can work well in a powder room, as can bold patterns. You may want to consult an interior designer or decorator if you’re unsure what will look best.


Floors, on the other hand, can be tricky. In magazines and online inspiration boards there are often hardwood floors photographed in powder rooms. We advise against using hardwood floors in areas with water. Installing wood floors in a bathroom may void the flooring’s warranty.


Ceramic and marble tile are beautiful alternatives to hardwood. However, if you’re set on the idea of wood, you may want to consider flooring that only appears like wood. We have some installed in our showroom:














Now our favorite part—fixture selection!




Kohler Santa Rosa ToiletChoosing a toilet can seem easy at first. A toilet is a toilet, right? WRONG. There are several things to consider when purchasing a commode:


  1. Height—Toilets vary in height from 10” to 18”. A standard toilet is 14 ½” to 16” high without the seat. A comfort height toilet, many of which are ADA compliant, is 17” to 19” from the floor to the top of the seat.
  2. Shape—Though you can choose some square models, most toilet bowls are round or oval (elongated). While the extra space of an elongated toilet can make it easier to use, this toilet shape can be too big for smaller spaces. It’s important to have accurate measurements of the locations before making your purchase.
  3. Mount—If your style is more contemporary, you may want to consider a wall mount toilet. They can be set at almost any height, and usually have the tank hidden behind the wall. This creates a clean, minimalistic space. A floor mount is the most common type in the US. Floor mounted toilets are set on the ground and have a short pedestal base below the bowl. This kind of toilet can fit in with any design scheme.
  4. Color—Most people choose white toilets because they’re easier to decorate around, and less likely to go out of style. However, if you’re planning to stay in your home for several years, you might choose something more colorful. Toilets come in all colors, depending on the model and manufacturer, and some distributors even offer painted toilets.


We like the Kohler Santa Rosa pictured left. It’s a compact, elongated, one-piece toilet. It is small enough for almost any powder room, yet it maintains the powerful, high-capacity performance you would expect from Kohler.




When selecting a sink for your powder room, remember that this room is intended for use by a single person—no need for double bowls or trough-style sinks here! It is also a formal designed space so appearance matters!

The best options for your powder room are pedestals, vessel bowls, console tables, and furniture vanities.

Console tables and pedestals leave more open space, which can make a small room appear larger. However, storage is limited with these options. You’ll have to install a shelf or small closet to store toilet paper, towels, cups, etc.


Furniture-style pieces and vessel bowls make great statements. These two options are definitely trending. The best part is that they have many design applications. You can find contemporary furniture pieces and Victorian vessels and everything in between.




There are infinite options when it comes to bathroom faucets. Start with the style you like (contemporary, traditional, transitional, etc. and then select the finish. This will narrow down your options—though only slightly!

If you’re replacing an old fixture, be sure you know whether the faucet is a four inch or eight inch spread. If you’re upgrading, consider installing an eight inch spread faucet to allow for easier cleaning.


Delta Victorian Single Handle Centerset Faucet    Delta Vero Two Handle Widespread Faucet


If you have selected a vessel sink, you’ll probably want to have a wall-mounted faucet. Most bathroom faucets aren’t tall enough to accommodate the height of a vessel bowl.




Powder Room Mirror KeidelNow 2009When decorating a powder room, it’s important to keep things simple. The powder room is small, and overwhelming it with décor can make it feel tight or cramped. Clear countertops of clutter and decorations so guests may use the space to set down handbags, keys, etc.


Adding a mirror is a great way to make the room appear larger. Because this is an informal space, the mirror does not have to have a cabinet attached to it for storage. Mirrors can also convey a particular style. Click here to view our selection of mirrors.




Like clothing, powder rooms look better when properly accessorized. Select soap dishes/dispensers, towel bars, and robe/coat hooks that match the finish of your faucet. This makes the room appear cohesive.




Ideally, there should be at least 10% natural light in any bathroom. However, this isn’t always possible. If you cannot add natural light to your space, make sure to add plenty of artificial light. It’s always better to over-light an area than under-light it. If necessary, add a dimmer to control the lighting.


Avoid placing a single light fixture in the middle of the room as this can create shadows. Instead, consider installing recessed spot lighting for your powder room’s ambient lighting. Recessed lights are both visually appealing and have a low profile that works well in the smaller space. Adding wall sconces on either side of the mirror will help eliminate harsh shadows, and undercabinet lighting can be used as a nightlight or as general mood lighting when entertaining.



The powder room may be one of the smallest rooms in a house, but if designed properly, it can make the biggest statement.



Speed Ovens

With Thanksgiving just around the corner, many homeowners are making the usual holiday preparations—deep cleaning the kitchen, dragging up extra seating from the basement, and assigning dishes to relatives. If you’re stuck cooking the turkey this year it might be a good time to consider a speed oven. A speed oven can cook a 12lb turkey 83% faster than a conventional oven. And that’s not all it can do…




Combining the technology of a microwave with the quality of a high-end convection oven, speed ovens work by recirculating heated air and using pinpointed microwaves. These joint cooking aspects allow food to heat quickly and evenly, without losing the flavor and texture as you would with just a microwave.




If cooking a whole turkey in 42 minutes isn’t good enough to convince you, there are several other features that might. Here are the features of our two favorite speed ovens:


Miele Speed Oven_1113


Miele MasterChef H 4084 BM

  • 15 operating modes
  • Dual timers
  • Delay start function
  • Infrared broiling
  • Favorites storage
  • Innovative stainless steel finish that resists fingerprints and scratches










Turbochef 30” Single Wall Speed Cook Oven

  • 7 color options to match almost any color scheme
  • On-demand help
  • Self-cleaning
  • Large capacity (can hold a 26lb turkey!)
  • 7 speedcook modes
  • Patented Airspeed technology









Speed ovens are great not only for the holidays, but for the working parent. After 8-10 hours at the office, making a nutritious meal for your family can seem impossible. Speed ovens are fast, efficient, and helpful—a dream come true for many working moms.




Cook times for popular items.








Building a Home


Building your home can be an exciting (and stressful) time. As a supplier, Keidel works with builders and future home owners to create beautiful homes. We also know a little bit about the building process and what to expect when you decide to build your home. Described below are some of the homes you can build, and the pros and cons of each. If you have any questions about the building process, or if you have an allowance for your project, call Keidel at 513-351-1600 and we’ll help you get started!




























Image text:


Keidel presents

Building a Home

There are four types of builder homes: Spec, Production, Semi-Custom, Custom.



  • A spec home is one that has not been built for a specific buyer. Generally, the builder plans to sell this kind of home shortly after construction.
  • Depending on the stage of construction, you may be able to request some customization.
  • Spec homes require the least amount of decision-making and time investment

PROS: can be inexpensive, already constructed or close to being finished, easy process for the buyer, you may be able to afford a home in a neighborhood you previously thought unaffordable

CONS: can be expensive depending on type of home, limited to no customization, builder often uses lower-end products



  • A production home is one of a group of homes that are similar in size and style within a planned subdivision.
  • The same floor plan (or similar) is used for each house.
  • The style and grate of cabinets, plumbing, flooring, etc. of the home are predetermined using stock items.
  • Should you want different items, you may choose to upgrade. Many production home builders have their own showrooms/selection centers where you can choose one of their upgrades, typically from the same manufacturer.

PROS: less expensive than a semi-custom home, quick to build, cost of stock items included in base price, easier building process than a semi-custom or custom home

CONS: upgrading items can be expensive, little to no customization, limited choice in product upgrades



  • A semi-custom home begins with a standard floor plan, which is then somewhat modified to fit your needs.
  • The builder establishes an allowance for each room/category, such as lighting or plumbing.
  • The total amount of the allowance is determined by the neighborhood, size of the house, and price of the house based on the final blue prints.

PROS: ability to modify floorplan, option to select appliances, plumbing fixtures, lighting, etc., generally less involved than a custom home

CONS: more expensive than a production home, very easy to exceed allowance, can be limited in design



  • A custom home is one that is designed by an architect, just for you.
  • All structural requirements, including plumbing, heating, and ventilation, must be decided before the final plans are drawn—so really think about what you want! It helps to have knowledge of home construction and every part of a home, not just the aesthetics.
  • Avoid making changes to the final blueprints. Every change must be redrawn and resubmitted to your local building department for approval and inspection. Even seemingly minor changes may create additional expenses and construction delays.
  • If you’re sticking to a budget, have your builder develop an allowance for each room of your home. When you visit individual showrooms and dealers, make sure the salespeople are aware of your budget.

PROS: endless customization options, ability to create dream home, because you are in control of the entire building process, the home is built to your standards

CONS : typically the most costly type of home, lengthy build times, requires daily involvement and knowledge of construction and home building processes


The Other Appliances

After years of planning and budgeting, you finally get to build your dream kitchen. Building/remodeling can be an exciting time. You’ve thought about the cabinetry, the design styles, the colors, the countertops, and those big ticket appliances—oven, cooktop, refrigerator, and dishwasher. But there are some other appliances out there you might not know about, and once you know about them, you might not want to live without them! Advancements in cooking technology have made kitchen appliances more efficient, easier to use, and capable of much, much more than you’d expect. Here are three kitchen appliances you may want to consider adding to your kitchen.



KitchenAid Warming Drawer


1) WARMING DRAWER—Gone are the days of cold dinners. Perhaps you have been in this scenario: The roast is still cooking, but the potatoes and green beans have been finished for twenty minutes. If you haven’t quite mastered perfect timing, a warming drawer is essential. Instead of letting food sit out and cool, pop your scrumptious dishes into the warming drawer to keep them at a nice temperature, without overcooking them. Warming drawers can also be used as bread proofers or slow cookers, depending on the model and settings.











Thermador Oven


2) STEAM+CONVECTION OVEN—Cook faster and smarter with a Steam + Convection Oven. Cooking with steam is perfect if you’re interested in: fat reduction, salt reduction, vitamin and mineral preservation, maintaining food moisture, and making food tender and easily digestible. You can cook a 14 pound turkey in 90 minutes with a steam/convection, and you can proof, bake, defrost, and slow cook too!












Miele Coffee System


3) COFFEE SYSTEM—Coffee lovers rejoice: you can have specialty coffee in the comfort of your own home. Plumbed-in water connections and built-in grinders mean you get the freshest and most convenient cup of coffee every day. The Miele CVA 4066 comes with a frothing system and integrated milk tank.













Ten Plumbing Dos & Don’ts

Plumbing is often an ignored aspect of people’s lives—until something goes wrong. Some homeowners don’t realize that a little maintenance can go a long way. So, to help you avoid hundreds of dollars in expenses, we’ve put together a short list of 10 plumbing dos and don’ts to keep your home (and water…) running smoothly.


Kohler Kitchen Faucet


DON’T pour fats or cooking oils into your sink. These waste materials can build up in your pipes, or in sewer pipes, causing blockages, backups, and sewer overflows (gross!)


DO run cold water at full pressure when using your disposer. Using cold water keeps food particles solid.


DON’T pour hot water into your toilet. We see this bad advice on Pinterest all the time. Do not do it! Toilets weren’t designed for hot water and pouring it into the toilet can cause the bowl to crack. Warm water should be fine, however.


DON’T pour coffee grounds in your sink drains. Even when running water, coffee grounds may clump together and clog your pipes. The best place for coffee grounds is in the compost bin.


DO open the drain on your water heater twice a year to remove sediment. The sediment could harden, which makes your heater run less efficiently. If sediment continues to accumulate it can permanently damage the water heater.


DON’T place cornhusks, onion skins, celery, or other high-fiber material into your disposer. These items can tangle and thread around the disposer and even burn out the motor.


DO pour two to three gallons of boiling water down shower/tub drains once per month to prevent excess build-up of hair and grease.


DON’T keep wastebaskets under the sink. Bumping drain pipes may cause leaks.


DO grind ice in your disposer. This helps to keep the blades sharp.


DO periodically remove and clean all aerators.  Over time the aerator may clog with dirt and mineral deposits–especially with Cincinnati’s hard water. Soak your aerator in CLR or similar cleaning solution to prevent uneven spray, decreased flow, and funny-tasting water!