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Bathtub Construction Tubs not only come in a multitude of sizes, colors and styles, but in a variety of materials as well. The choice and combination depends upon individual needs and tastes, as well as architectural limitations. With dozens of manufacturers offering myriad shapes and sizes in a variety of materials and with numerous options, a visit to a bathtub showroom can be a bewildering experience. All materials used in bathroom fixtures and tubs can be damaged by abuse. No material is impervious to everything. Knowing the properties of available materials can help you choose the right tub. AcrylicPorcelain on Steel (POS) These are among the most common types of tub sold. They consist of one-piece thin stamped steel shells coated with a heat-fused porcelain enamel. Porcelain enamel is a substantially vitreous or glassy inorganic coating bonded to metal by fusion at a temperature above 800 degrees F. 
This process forms a smooth attractive finish that is resistant to acid, corrosion, or abrasion, is flameproof, colorfast, and sanitary. It also tends to make these units reasonably priced and relatively lightweight. Advantages:
Under normal use, these tubs should last for many years. Their drawbacks are that they may be damaged by impact, and if the surface is chipped, they can rust. Lower priced POS tubs can be noisy to use, although this is dependent on how they are made and the gauge of steel used. They are often used in self-rimming as well as freestanding configurations Maintenance: The bathtub surface is very easy to clean. There are no pores for dirt to penetrate, so the dirt will just rinse off. For sanitary purposes, only non-abrasive soap should be used. Dishwashing detergent such as Joy, Palmolive, Ivory is all that is required. If something is spilled on the bathtub, the following are safe to use: Fantastic, Top job, Formula 409, Windex With Ammonia, and Glass Plus. Porcelain on Steel Composite 
Bootz SYNIRON 2 combines the features of Porcelain-on-Steel with a molded material which is chemically bonded to the tub. SYNIRON 2 is lightweight and designed to reduce sound and improve heat retention. Bootz claims it is strong enough to endure significant reverse impacts that can occur during transportation, handling and installation. SYNIRON2 bathtubs weigh 1/3 as much as cast iron, making them easier to handle during installation. To read more information about the properties of porcelain, visit Properties of Porcelain Enamel  Acrylic 
Another popular tub material is thermal-formed acrylic.It is vacuum-molded from sheets of colored acrylic and reinforced with fiberglass, which makes it resistant to chips and cracks. It is economical and lightweight, and it can be repaired if damaged. Acrylic is chemically inert, immune to almost all chemicals, and requires only a mild liquid, non-abrasive cleaner to keep it looking like new. It has a natural luster, and a non-porous finish that is easy to clean, but it’s subject to scratching and can discolor over time. Advantages Acrylic tubs boast a beautiful high gloss finish and because the color goes all the way through, they are more resistant to abrasion and fading. 
They are light weight and easily formed into large tubs, especially whirlpools, where cast iron would be prohibitively heavy. Acrylic is a good insulator, so water stays warm longer. They’re usually warm to the touch, easy to clean, and they’re colorfast. They are offered in a wide variety of colors and styles, offering a virtually unlimited design potential.Some manufacturers use a grade of acrylic that is durable enough to be able to be hit with a hammer and not crack. In most cases, if the surface becomes scratched due to rough treatment it can be buffed back to its original glossy shine. 
Although acrylic is resistant to most non-corrosive chemicals and is easily cleaned with a soft cloth and mild household cleaners, these bathtubs may be damaged by using very strong chemicals. Do not use products such as
Valspar’s Goof Off ®, DOW Scrubbing Bubbles®, or any product containing acetates. Harsh acetates attack the structural integrity of the plastic, and break down the chemical bonds of the acrylic.Repairs: If something happens to dull, scratch or chip the bathtub, the appearance can be restored back to the new look with a liquid polisher such as Gel-Gloss. On an acrylic surface, paint thinner is permissible to remove paint or primer. Deep scratches or burns can be removed through a simple process of sanding the area with inexpensive fine-grit wet and dry sandpaper. The high gloss can be quickly restored by light buffing with the heel of the hand and toothpaste or baking soda if rubbing compound is not available. Regardless of the cleaning solution used, the surface should be flooded with soapy water and a thoroughly rinsed. Fiberglass/Gelcoat (FRP) 
Gel-coated fiberglass, also known as FRP, is generally the least expensive material for bathtubs. It is lightweight, easy to install, and can be molded into a variety of shapes.Though similar in appearance to acrylic, FRP is different from acrylic. While the surface of an acrylic unit is vacuum formed from a single sheet of solid plastic, a Gelcoat surface is formed by spraying a pigmented polyester resin onto a mold, much like making a fiberglass boat hull. Hefty layers of fiberglass and foam insulation underscore the sleek and stylish lines of gelcoat units. Gelcoat fabrication is a labor-intensive process requiring critically important hand spraying and hand-rolling. Both acrylic and gelcoat surfaces are reinforced with the same fiberglass and resin composite and hand rolled for strength and durability. Pros/Cons The gelcoat surface is thinner and less durable than acrylic ... the finish lacks the depth and resilience, which allows it to oxidize and fade over time. It does not have the life expectancy of acrylic. While the finish won’t last as long as other materials (it shows wear after 10 to 15 years), and can scratch or fade, it is also easily repaired. Many combination tub-and-shower units are made of fiberglass. Higher grade units include a thicker coating, multiple layers of fiberglass, added support around the bathing well and bowl, and a thicker base tying into the back wall. A foam inner core helps to retard the spread of fire, and provides heat and sound insulation, minimizing the hollow sound associated with some built-in units. 
Tub/Shower units from Aker include a shape conforming 1/2 inch thick balsa wood sheet, to maximize surface contact and eliminate air pockets which can result in a weak floor.
When encased in a fiberglass resin shell, a structural sandwich results that out is very strong and rigid.  Although very small, the natural cell network of end grain balsa wood will carry enormous loads by distributing weight throughout the interconnected cell wall structures. Combined with hand rolled fiberglass and resin, which fills these cells, the structure will support loads well beyond typical manufacturing materials. In addition, some manufacturers offer tubs in reinforced fiberglass with a gloss white gelcoat finish that looks just like the original cast iron tub. Maintenance Acrylic and fiberglass units can be cleaned with a mild detergent (such as dishwashing soap). Abrasive cleaners, detergents, disinfectants, or aerosol cleaning products should not be used. Most minor surface abrasions can be easily removed by using a water-based white automotive polishing compound applied in a circular motion with a clean rag to the affected area. The residue is then wiped off and a coat of quality automotive paste wax is applied. If drywall compound or ceiling texture coating is spilled on one of these units, plain water should take care of the problem. If the substance will not come off with water then it’s probably paint or primer and will require something a little stronger. On a gelcoated bath unit, acetone can be used. Regardless of which solvent is chosen, the surface should be flooded with soapy water and a thorough rinsing. Cast Iron  Enamel-coated cast iron is the most durable bathtub material, and usually the most expensive. The word "cast" simply identifies the method used to produce the finished product, and not to describe the material itself. The casting method involves pouring the iron in a molten or liquid form into a mold which defines the shape of the finished product. The thickness of cast iron makes its surface resistant to acids, and provides outstanding protection against chipping, scratches and dents. It’s very impact resistant and displays the richest, most highly polished finish of all bath materials. Cast Iron’s combination of real molten iron and extra-thick enamel provides extraordinary beauty. Fired at temperatures much higher than is possible with enameled steel products, the cast iron surface is "fire polished" to obtain its vivid color and deep gloss.  Its high gloss surface resists damage and Its structural density prevents dents and dings which can cause porcelain-on-steel tubs to chip. Cast Iron reduces vibration and noise while helping water to stay warm longer. These units are extremely heavy, and because of the weight, cast iron isn’t the best choice for large tubs. It can not be molded, but is ideal for vintage-look claw foots or tubs with simple, modern lines. Most cast iron tubs carry a manufacturer’s warranty for as long as the original purchaser owns the tub. Pros/Cons Properly maintained, a cast iron tub should last a lifetime. Cast iron will not scratch easily, but that does not mean it won’t. Avoid using or cleaning sharp metal objects in the tub. Repairing scratches is an almost impossible job for the layman. Repair and refinishing a cast iron tub is best left to professionals. However, even a badly scratched cast iron tub can be refinished at a fraction of the cost of replacing it. The usual method for refinishing involves the use of epoxy paint, and can be done without removing the tub. Many colors are available at the time of refinishing. See your yellow pages for a list of Bathtub refinishers. Its sand-blasted, "non-skid" bottom can be nearly impossible to clean if it is scuffed by a workman’s rubber heel, for example. There are very few models longer than five feet, fewer still that can accommodate two adults, and almost none that were designed for use with whirlpool water jets. Cultured Marble 
Cultured marble tubs tend to cost a bit more than acrylics, though less than cast iron. Cultured marble is a man-made product, manufactured from crushed lime stone and polyester resin, with a gel coated finish. The gel coat is specially formulated to produce a tough, durable, transparent surface resistant to normal wear. The process produces a unique range of colors, patterns, and veining. Cultured Marble is stronger and less brittle than quarried marble. And, unlike porcelain, it can be repaired if slightly chipped. Pros/Cons The surface of these tubs is finished with gelcoat, and is subject to the same drawbacks as fiberglass. The marble surface can be scratched and care should be taken to avoid placing objects on it that might cause scratches. While very attractive, many offer unique shapes, and the onyx finish is a look not found in acrylics ... they are also very brittle and even the heaviest marble tub can crack from thermal shock (water temperature should not exceed 150 degrees Farenheit ). Should that occur, the only viable cure would be to replace it with a new tub. The resin material is not impervious to burns and materials that might melt, scar, or damage the glossy marble surface. Minor scratches or cigarette scorch marks may be removed by using 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper. The area should then be rubbed and buffed with standard auto body rubbing compound. However, it is highly recommended that minor dents or nicks be repaired by trained persons familiar with the proper techniques. Avoid excessive tightening of plumbing fixtures which could result in cracking the marble. Maintenance Because of the hard gel-coat surface and non-porous surfaces, it resists staining. Care is very simple. Routine cleaning with a soft sponge or cloth or non-abrasive aerosol foam cleaner is all that is normally needed to give many years of trouble-free service. Harsh abrasive cleaners are neither required nor recommended. Scouring powders are a "no-no." Most manufacturers recommend using products such as Mr. Clean, Dupont 409, or Dow Foaming Cleanser. To maintain luster and make cleaning easier, periodic applications of paste wax or Gel-Gloss may be applied. Gel-Gloss can remove small scratches and will also shine and seal the cultured marble surface. Mild abrasives such as automotive polishing compound will remove simple scratches and stains. Natural Marble NOTE: Keidel does not sell marble tubs. This information is provided strictly for educational purposes. Natural marble is a crystalline, compact variety of metamorphosed limestone, and is a very porous material. Hard water will etch the surface, making it rough. Cleaners with an acidic base will cause the surface to crumble, and oils will stain it. Marble is also extremely brittle, and will crack from thermal shock if the water temperature is too hot, or if the temperature of the marble changes suddenly. Solid Surface Solid surface, familiar as a countertop material, is the newest material for use in bathtubs. Advantages Solid surface materials have evenly distributed particles running throughout the thickness of the sheet, ensuring that the original color and texture remains consistent regardless of wear. Unlike natural stone, damaged sections are repairable. While it is possible to damage the surface, there is almost no damage that might be considered to be permanent, since the surface can be sanded and refinished. Since their color goes all the way through, unlike laminates, minor scratches can usually just be rubbed out. If the scratches are too deep, a matching filler material is available that allows the homeowner to make nearly invisible repairs. Solid surface is warm to the touch, which help keeps bathwater at the right temperature for a longer period of time.
Wood NOTE: Keidel does not sell wooden tubs. This information is provided strictly for educational purposes. A wooden Bathtub can be a fairly short-term luxury. Wood and water do not mix. A wooden tub will eventually warp, crack or rot. Teak is the best wood to use, but the tub must be used frequently or it will dry out and split. If you wish to put a wooden tub in your home, the floor must be waterproof. It is also advisable to put a floor drain in the room. A built-in wooden tub can be made larger than the standard Bathtub, but the inside must be made waterproof. A coating of clear fiberglass resin does a better job of waterproofing these tubs than does polyurethane varnish (which can require more than 20 coats).  In some areas of the U.S., wooden tubs do not meet the local building requirements. Please check your local building codes. Mosaic/Ceramic Tile NOTE: Keidel does not sell custom tile tubs. This information is provided strictly for educational purposes. For a truly unique look, a specialty contractor can design and build a custom tub lined with ceramic tile or mosaic tile. It is essential that such a job be done by professionals who are experienced in installing custom built baths. Faulty work could not only endanger the bather, but could result in leaks. Small, undetectable leaks can damage not only the decorations in other rooms, but also the basic structure of the house. Black mold and dry rot are two potential hazards.
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